Gilfy SS 2011 Collection

Just discovered that Japanese brand Gilfy has a fab new video out with their 2011 Spring Summer collection – yeehar!

 

It showcases the newest styles from Maison Gilfy, Re Dark and D:Land

See the Gilfy 2011 S/S Exhibition Report here, as well as a ton of photos from the night. Here’s a few I especially liked

The skeleton in the sombrero, and the Day of the Dead sugar skull light

 

Religious iconography ahoy, like this Madonna bag, and crosses in the decor and styled in the outfits

 

Sugar skull tops with lace backing (want!), and engineer boots in plain and zebra print

 

Moving onto the collection itself: the new collection was shot against a backdrop that’s like a Mexican Western…lots of skulls, crosses, limewashed walls, sombreros, lacy ironwork and brightly coloured tilework.

Far from becoming a comical pastiche of American Indian motifs (and I’ve seen WAY too much suede fringing in some 2011 collections), Gilfy manages to infuse a basically gyaru rock look with just a subtle ethnic detail, as seen on the cuffs of this top, and the sugar skull detail in this crochet cardi:

 

Gilfy has also taken the stripe trend and used it quite subtly, *just* seen in the onesie at left or the striped cardi on the right (given the native indian touch by means of the belt)

 

Some pieces from the SS 2011 have started trickling into the webstore, and seen below are a few I like.

From Gilfy:
Cropped jacket with embellishment front and back (I prefer the black to the denim – so surprises there!)

 

Zebra jeans (I’m not fond of the faded denim this season), and the striped cardi seen already above:

Although these pieces are heaven for monochromatic fanatics, the black and white would look fantastic paired with a bright blocked colour like orange, blue, purple, acid yellow or green.

From D:Land:
jet-beaded long chain with cross, and caps in black or silver (which work with the still popular military trend):

 

Union jack studded top, and bright turquoise shoulder bag (bright aqua is one of THE colours this season)

 

I saw in the video a brief look into upcoming mini-trends from D:land, and the “Starry Rock” look is definitely my favourite; can’t wait to see more items released for 2011.

 

Re Dark seems hung up on the preppy trend still, so I’m waiting to see something that grabs me from the brand.

Backs (not seen in video)
Studded crosses in silver or bronze on leather cord; fringed bags that look classy not hokey:

 

I have to say I prefer the motifs seen so far, to the nordic prints of winter, but they have to be subtle so as not to end up looking like a backpacker who has just come back from Peru!

What are your faves? How do you feel about the native indian ethnic influences coming through this season?

A little look at Aula Aila & Ryza SS 2011

Apologies for the lack of posting in the past week. It has been hideously hot in Sydney, hitting 41 on Saturday, and without air-con in our computer room, it’s just not a nice place to spend time in during a heatwave! I’ve also been quite suck with the flu, and either been laying on the couch (near the aircon), or dragging myself to work and dying afterwards.

But on with the show!!

Aula Aila is a brand I”ve been interested in for a while now, and it’s been picked up by Tokyo Eye to represent edgy modern Japanese fashion overseas (Paris, Shanghai, Hong Kong and India.)  Aula Aila and its diffusion brand Ryza have featured previously in Glamorous magazine, ViVi and Jelly.

Their Spring Summer 2011 collections have been unveiled, very much echoing trending in other japanese labels right now..notably the 70’s and retro generally.  Aula Aila’s latest collection is themed “She Meets Hipster” – where a 70’s gypsy girl roams the world.

Ryza’s is Happy Retro Girl or Bittersweet Generation – and a more 70’s graphic for the catalogue cover you couldn’t come across!

Photographed by Mika Ninagawa, known for her hyper colour

While I don’t have access to the catalogue, the overall direction can be sourced from the lookbooks and clothing released thus far.

Here are some behind the scenes pics on the catalogue shoot:

 

There’s a very exotic boudoir feel to the shoot..is she in her own bedroom, or relaxing in a Moroccan riad after an afternoon haggling in the souk? Hippy boho florals abound, as do high waisted shorts/flared jeans, fringed vests, multi-layered bangles, crochet ponchos and skirts…it’s all very “Almost Famous”.

Lace and peter pan collars have popped up on tops and dresses…a la Alexa Chung (and in the black, Wednesday Addams!)

 

Broderie anglaise was another fabric used to vintage effect, especially with frills (boy, do I remember this from my own girlhood!)

 

From Aula Aila, fringing ahoy!

This off-white lace maxi was seen in February ViVi. Lace was also seen in voluminous sleeves on jersey dresses.

  

The fringed vest is set to be popular (I just hope girls will leave the cowboy boots of last year well alone, and go with clogs to keep it modern)

It has to be said, the clothing looks better on models than on mannequins…

  

And finally, the 70’s trends from AA/Ryza/DraSTic can be seen in the April issue of Glamorous

I find myself attracted to the 70’s vibe, the ethnic feel, the jewellery, the flares, the lace and maybe even the fringing. I have never been a fan of denim, and WON’T be wearing jeans, but already own a pair of high waisted black pants that make my legs look really long, despite me being only 156cm tall.  What do you like or not like about the 70’s and retro looks coming out now?

Trends from Fall/Winter Tokyo – will they take off here?

From my visits to Tokyo both at the start of their Fall/Winter fashion season in August and now towards the end, I’ve seen a lot of the trends there that may well translate into trends here in Australia, as the colder months get closer. 

Some are in line with overall trends in worldwide fashion, which are already being seen; a few are Japanese-led. I’ve checked a lot of the magazines, shopped in popular gal (as well as my usual gothic) stores, and done a lot of people watching, to get an overall view. Here are the ones that spring to mind.

FUR & FAUX FUR

The Foxtail

The foxtail is one of the most widespread items I’ve seen on bags everywhere – girls, guys, goths, gyaru – sometimes in unnatural colours, but often in grey, brown and black, and often with charms attached. This isn’t news for those who know Japanese & Korean fashion, but it’s an interesting trend that’s been going on a while now, and spreading to kids and fashionistas in the west. (Yes, I bought one: call it a guilty pleasure)

 

*Edit: I went to Sportsgirl today (jan 14) and saw mini foxtails in-store!! Had to buy one!

Fur boots

Whether thigh high, knee length or ankle, boots trimmed with faux fur or shearling were EVERYWHERE in stores, and worn by EVERYONE in the younger demographic. Many had a 2-way use, where the fur could be taken off and the boot worn alone (I bought 2 of these myself; one an ankle wedge, and the other mid-calf with high heel). I think those of us in warm Australia might well just take to this trend as it’s a glamour item we don’t normally get to wear – it’s just not cold enough in Aussie cities to warrant even faux fur.

My new fave store is R&E or Rose Essence, and here’s a few offerings from them:

There were also those lace-up khaki or brown boots we’ve seen here with military styling & buckles, & clog booties, but ankle wedges, thigh high and faux fur on any length boot won out in the most-worn stakes. And there were NO GLADIATORS – yaay!

Legwarmers

Yup – they’re back. Worn to simulate boots, they came in faux fur versions, as well as woollen varieties in cable-knit, fairisle and nordic designs. I, erm, already bought some black furry bootcovers…but we’ll see if I wear ’em or if it was just shopping fever.

Fur collars and coats

Faux fur collars were likewise everywhere, on upmarket coats, puffa jackets/parkas and duffle coats. There were also whole coats and jackets in faux fur, often in leopard, which I found a bit chunky.  Overall, this is another trend that will fly here. These are by Biancheri tutu, Lip Service, Love Boat and Gilfy


Double-breasted wool trenchcoats

These were popular, often in leopard once again, and often with gold militray style buttons and although my fave was Lip Service with a great stand-up collar, I settled for Cecil McBee. Left is by Gimlet, top right coat is the Cecil McBee, and the Lip Service version is beneath.

Aviator jackets with Shearling collar

This has been a trend everywhere, so I won’t mention it further here.

Khaki duffle coats with fur-trimmed hoods

I saw these EVERYWHERE, perhaps because they could be casual or dressy.  Some had wooden toggles, some had gold military buttons, but each brand essentially had their own version. While we’ve already shown an openness to the khaki trend with cargo pants galore this summer, I don’t know that these jackets will be as prevalent here – they’re just not a staple for aussie girls.  And, like me, many may associate them with Mancunian geezers/tossers Oasis, who popularised them back in the 90’s.  The below are by Lip Service, Love Girls Market, Moussy and Royal Party.


A-line coats

Very similar to the trenchcoats mentioned above, some had a pronounced A-line, like a swing coat. These are by Gimlet and RoseBullet.

 

Capes & Ponchos

These were common in camel and khaki, and often in wool, occasionally in canvas. While capes will be huge here too, I’m not sure about the ponchos. Capes below are by Gimlet and Cecil McBee, the crochet poncho is by Snidel.

Nordic Prints

Nordic prints were seen on skirts, legwarmers, tops, jumpers..you name it. I personally didn’t like this trend that much, as I remember it from back in the 80’s the first time round. Fair-isle I can handle, but snowflakes just seem a little hokey and ski-resort for me. Young gyaru everywhere disagree with me, but we’ll wait to see whether aussies go for it.  Below are a Duras skirt, Egoist jumper, Rienda dress and MiiA tights.


Men’s style trousers with suspenders

Often in a check pattern, and often with hems rolled up. Below are pants by Durer and Snidel.

 Brogue shoes

Also known as Oxfords, these are often two-toned shoes or boots with a front “spat” effect. Sometimes these were also trimmed with fur, as below. I’m already on this trend with my black & white boots, and I can see the more neutral toned ones would work well with Dolly Kei looks. I don’t think this is going to be huge here.


Long crosses

Seen here at tutuHA and Glad News in chunky plastic with a big ass chain. No, I don’t think it will take off here (although crosses generally have). But I succumbed and bought the Cameron Racy one.

 

Skeletons & Skulls  on everything

This isn’t just goth shops…this is gyaru. Glad News, Durer, Cecil McBee….perhaps it’s the Ed Hardy effect. I like ’em and have worn skulls for years. They’re not new in Australia either, so I don’t know that this will become a huge resurgence here.

 

Although of course the goth/punk crossover shops like Sexpot Revenge and funsters Super Lovers never let us down:

Vests

As a foil to the serious, more expensive military coats I saw everywhere, I quite liked the casual appeal of these knit military style vests and cardis, seen here by JSG and Zelos…

(*Edit: saw a great military vest in Sportsgirl 14/1 too…do I need another one?)

…but of course the chart toppers were the fur and faux fur vests, already popular here last winter.

HAIR

Colour dipped hair

There was a lot of hair that was light brown, but with a bright stripe on the bottom of colours such as pink, blue, purple etc (as seen on models in Jelly, Egg, Vivi etc). This has been seen here anyway, so is nothing new. But I got the impression that it was a mark of freedom for some store girls, who would never be allowed to go “all the way” with colour. Several admired my brightly coloured hair, but said they wouldn’t keep their job if they had it!

What I didn’t see that has been trending here:

* Mad Men style retro looks – understandably, since Japan hasn’t been swept up in the series as we in the west have.
* Maxi-length dresses and skirts – japanese chicks like to wear the shortest of hem lengths to show off their legs.
* Double denim (thank god!) or even much denim at all. Also not many denim shorts – leather and vinyl was more prevalent.
* 70’s style pants with flared legs – saw them in the magazines but not on people.

I can’t wait for May/June when it gets cool enough to wear some of these! Although I can wear my grey military vest and big cross and skull jewellery now 🙂 Those of you currently in cold climates – have most of these taken off in your area? Which ones do you wish would? Which do you hate?

Fukubukuro pictures, Part 2

Now I’m back home and can upload pics from my Sony, here are some more pictures from January 2nd – the day the New Years lucky bags go on sale in Japan.

The excellent site Tokyo Fashion has already done 3 fab articles with loads of photos on Fukubukuro here, here and here.

As for me, I went to Marui One first, as I wanted to get gothic gear. I was there about 10.30 but there was no queue out the door or anything. It was only when I got inside that I saw masses of people looking at the sales and the various bags. Here’s a quick pic I took on my way out:

I was there primarily for the shopping, not to take pictures, so there weren’t that many. After all, I had THREE major centres to hit! I passed Studio Alta around midday also, and there weren’t too many girls out the front, although it was very crowded inside. Many had the rolling pink floral cases by Liz Lisa, I noticed.

Had I but known, I should’ve just stayed there, as between Alta and Lumine Est, most of the major gal brands are covered, and I wouldn’t have been swept along in the seething mass of people that was Shibuya 109. But, to Shibuya I went.

It didn’t look too bad from far away…

 

But you could only see the madness when you got up close!

Everywhere were people jostling, clutching multiple lucky bags…some TV company was even filming it, as you can just see here…

lucky bags Shibuya 109

gyaru lucky bags Shibuya 109

lucky bags Shibuya 109

You can see the familiar brand names Cecil McBee, Vanquish, Ank Rouge, Rose FanFan, JSG, and one that might be Manalove…everywhere girls were opening their packs and swapping with girlfriends nearby (as items are not always the same, even in bags from the same brand).  I took these pics as I was carried along by the crowd. Once inside it was little better; again the crowd just surged along taking you with it like a raging torrent, and you had to try to get out of the crowd to enter a shop you liked. One – Emoda – had quite a queue to even get in the store, such was its popularity. And then there were the queues at the tills.

I decided just to buy particular pieces I liked rather than lucky bags, as I’d already bought 2 naoto bags in the morning, and the ones where I could see the contents, were not that appealing to me.

I then went to Harajuku, visiting La Foret for the the gothic punk underground floors, before proceeding along the street past Forever 21, where you can see girls spruiking the bags outside:

 

Here’s what they sounded like: Girls at Harajuku Forever 21 spruiking lucky bags

And here’s how slow it was walking in the crowd from La Foret to Takeshita Street: Harajuku on fukubukuro day, Jan 2

Takeshita Street was, of course, crowded to the max as well:

SO great were the crowds out that day, that as I was waiting for the Yamanote line train back to Shinjuku, a very strange thing happened: the  trains stopped to let people OFF on the other side, but wouldn’t let people ON.  This just doesn’t happen on a normal day, no matter how busy. Two trains passed in this way, and I despaired of ever getting home, when a third train finally arrived and actually opened its doors to the ravening hordes. PHEW!

Gyaru brand haul from Tokyo New Year sales

So now we move on to the more gyaru purchases I’ve made lately…although this first item I bought, the fox tail, was bought in the gothic top floors of Marui One, as were the tights . The black fluffy faux-fur legwarmers were from Intesucre, a chain which has stores everywhere.

 

My faves are coming up, however.  I bought a funky long jumper wit a big skull on the front in sequins from Durer, which I wore all yesterday.

 

My absolute fave is this gorgeous leopard double-breasted trenchcoat from Cecil McBee. I also got a cute military style vest in a soft grey knit (only 1000 yen) from SwordFish, a brand I’m coming to like more.

 

On the accessories front, though I tried on those Russian style fur hats, they just swamped me, so I got this animal print spotted beret in soft angora….and these glorious boots o’ doom from R & E!

 

Whatcha think, y’all?? Sexy as hell, these…even tho I won’t be wearing them in Sydney until June/July!

Now, in my travels around the various gal stores, I’m becoming quite enamoured of some brands at the rock-chick end of the spectrum – Taboo wth its skulls & crosses and Twisty (acessories) being 2 that remind me of tutuHA. I really liked Emoda, but unfortunately the great abstract print peggings were not in my size.

I originally wanted the Lip Service leopard coat, but the only one I could find, in Lumine Est, was too small. At 109, no leopard ones were left. However, I ducked into Cecil Mcbee in the Shinjuku subnade and nabbed the last leopard coat on the rack – and glory be, it fitted!

I’ve realised that Studio Alta is almost as good as 109, despite lacking a tutuHA shop, and it’s less crowded. It’s here that I’ll return before I leave for any last minute purchases.

Where do you like to shop when you’re in Tokyo, or where would you like to? Which of these items do you heart best?