Trends from Fall/Winter Tokyo – will they take off here?

From my visits to Tokyo both at the start of their Fall/Winter fashion season in August and now towards the end, I’ve seen a lot of the trends there that may well translate into trends here in Australia, as the colder months get closer. 

Some are in line with overall trends in worldwide fashion, which are already being seen; a few are Japanese-led. I’ve checked a lot of the magazines, shopped in popular gal (as well as my usual gothic) stores, and done a lot of people watching, to get an overall view. Here are the ones that spring to mind.

FUR & FAUX FUR

The Foxtail

The foxtail is one of the most widespread items I’ve seen on bags everywhere – girls, guys, goths, gyaru – sometimes in unnatural colours, but often in grey, brown and black, and often with charms attached. This isn’t news for those who know Japanese & Korean fashion, but it’s an interesting trend that’s been going on a while now, and spreading to kids and fashionistas in the west. (Yes, I bought one: call it a guilty pleasure)

 

*Edit: I went to Sportsgirl today (jan 14) and saw mini foxtails in-store!! Had to buy one!

Fur boots

Whether thigh high, knee length or ankle, boots trimmed with faux fur or shearling were EVERYWHERE in stores, and worn by EVERYONE in the younger demographic. Many had a 2-way use, where the fur could be taken off and the boot worn alone (I bought 2 of these myself; one an ankle wedge, and the other mid-calf with high heel). I think those of us in warm Australia might well just take to this trend as it’s a glamour item we don’t normally get to wear – it’s just not cold enough in Aussie cities to warrant even faux fur.

My new fave store is R&E or Rose Essence, and here’s a few offerings from them:

There were also those lace-up khaki or brown boots we’ve seen here with military styling & buckles, & clog booties, but ankle wedges, thigh high and faux fur on any length boot won out in the most-worn stakes. And there were NO GLADIATORS – yaay!

Legwarmers

Yup – they’re back. Worn to simulate boots, they came in faux fur versions, as well as woollen varieties in cable-knit, fairisle and nordic designs. I, erm, already bought some black furry bootcovers…but we’ll see if I wear ’em or if it was just shopping fever.

Fur collars and coats

Faux fur collars were likewise everywhere, on upmarket coats, puffa jackets/parkas and duffle coats. There were also whole coats and jackets in faux fur, often in leopard, which I found a bit chunky.  Overall, this is another trend that will fly here. These are by Biancheri tutu, Lip Service, Love Boat and Gilfy


Double-breasted wool trenchcoats

These were popular, often in leopard once again, and often with gold militray style buttons and although my fave was Lip Service with a great stand-up collar, I settled for Cecil McBee. Left is by Gimlet, top right coat is the Cecil McBee, and the Lip Service version is beneath.

Aviator jackets with Shearling collar

This has been a trend everywhere, so I won’t mention it further here.

Khaki duffle coats with fur-trimmed hoods

I saw these EVERYWHERE, perhaps because they could be casual or dressy.  Some had wooden toggles, some had gold military buttons, but each brand essentially had their own version. While we’ve already shown an openness to the khaki trend with cargo pants galore this summer, I don’t know that these jackets will be as prevalent here – they’re just not a staple for aussie girls.  And, like me, many may associate them with Mancunian geezers/tossers Oasis, who popularised them back in the 90’s.  The below are by Lip Service, Love Girls Market, Moussy and Royal Party.


A-line coats

Very similar to the trenchcoats mentioned above, some had a pronounced A-line, like a swing coat. These are by Gimlet and RoseBullet.

 

Capes & Ponchos

These were common in camel and khaki, and often in wool, occasionally in canvas. While capes will be huge here too, I’m not sure about the ponchos. Capes below are by Gimlet and Cecil McBee, the crochet poncho is by Snidel.

Nordic Prints

Nordic prints were seen on skirts, legwarmers, tops, jumpers..you name it. I personally didn’t like this trend that much, as I remember it from back in the 80’s the first time round. Fair-isle I can handle, but snowflakes just seem a little hokey and ski-resort for me. Young gyaru everywhere disagree with me, but we’ll wait to see whether aussies go for it.  Below are a Duras skirt, Egoist jumper, Rienda dress and MiiA tights.


Men’s style trousers with suspenders

Often in a check pattern, and often with hems rolled up. Below are pants by Durer and Snidel.

 Brogue shoes

Also known as Oxfords, these are often two-toned shoes or boots with a front “spat” effect. Sometimes these were also trimmed with fur, as below. I’m already on this trend with my black & white boots, and I can see the more neutral toned ones would work well with Dolly Kei looks. I don’t think this is going to be huge here.


Long crosses

Seen here at tutuHA and Glad News in chunky plastic with a big ass chain. No, I don’t think it will take off here (although crosses generally have). But I succumbed and bought the Cameron Racy one.

 

Skeletons & Skulls  on everything

This isn’t just goth shops…this is gyaru. Glad News, Durer, Cecil McBee….perhaps it’s the Ed Hardy effect. I like ’em and have worn skulls for years. They’re not new in Australia either, so I don’t know that this will become a huge resurgence here.

 

Although of course the goth/punk crossover shops like Sexpot Revenge and funsters Super Lovers never let us down:

Vests

As a foil to the serious, more expensive military coats I saw everywhere, I quite liked the casual appeal of these knit military style vests and cardis, seen here by JSG and Zelos…

(*Edit: saw a great military vest in Sportsgirl 14/1 too…do I need another one?)

…but of course the chart toppers were the fur and faux fur vests, already popular here last winter.

HAIR

Colour dipped hair

There was a lot of hair that was light brown, but with a bright stripe on the bottom of colours such as pink, blue, purple etc (as seen on models in Jelly, Egg, Vivi etc). This has been seen here anyway, so is nothing new. But I got the impression that it was a mark of freedom for some store girls, who would never be allowed to go “all the way” with colour. Several admired my brightly coloured hair, but said they wouldn’t keep their job if they had it!

What I didn’t see that has been trending here:

* Mad Men style retro looks – understandably, since Japan hasn’t been swept up in the series as we in the west have.
* Maxi-length dresses and skirts – japanese chicks like to wear the shortest of hem lengths to show off their legs.
* Double denim (thank god!) or even much denim at all. Also not many denim shorts – leather and vinyl was more prevalent.
* 70’s style pants with flared legs – saw them in the magazines but not on people.

I can’t wait for May/June when it gets cool enough to wear some of these! Although I can wear my grey military vest and big cross and skull jewellery now 🙂 Those of you currently in cold climates – have most of these taken off in your area? Which ones do you wish would? Which do you hate?

Grimoire video – take a peek inside the Grimoire store

I realise a lot of people will never get to Tokyo to see the awesomeness that is Grimoire for themselves…so here is a little video just showing a few things in the store.

I took it while in Grimoire last week, where I also got a photo with the Grimoire girls (and one boy!) This is just slightly different from the one I posted the other day 🙂

Interestingly, we’d just talked about how I come back to Tokyo in late March every year for the Paddy Punk festival “Wild Rover”, where Japanese bands like the Cherry Cokes play music  evocative of the Dropkick Murphys, Flogging Molly and the Pogues, when the store’s taped music started playing Irish folk tunes! Listen and you’ll hear 🙂

For other posts on Grimoire, check out: http://thefashionatetraveller.com/tag/grimoire

Sister and Candy – edgy fashion in Shibuya

Last Thursday I visited the hipper-than-hip store Sister, with Candy underneath. It really is a must-see for any fashionista visiting Tokyo.

You approach it from a laneway just near Parco and Loft in Shibuya…and at first you think, “it can’t be this little laneway…it’s a bit desolate!”. And then you see this:

Yup, a bunch of mannequins with the word “FAKE” emblazoned across their chests. Then you see a bright yellow doorway and hot pink kerb behind them.

 

The telltale spooky lettering of Candy totally gives it away.  You know you’re in the right place.

It’s time to venture in, so up the stairs you trot (gotta be fit!)

Once inside, you’re greeted with polished wooden floors, shiny, almost mirror-tiled ceilings, sumptuous window drapery..and rack after rack of to-die-for, glam-rock clothes. There’s an eclectic yet cohesive mix of cutting-edge designer looks from the likes of Giles, Mark Fast and Marios Schwab, vintage pieces and shoes, tights in amazing designs (as in my post on great tights here), and millinery.

Yes, they stock the designs of the awe-stonishing Piers Atkinson, as well as that of Stephen Jones, UK milliner and tophat maker extraordinaire. You can just see a Christmas card from Stephen on the top shelf in the pic to the left.  Jones’ latest collection is the most modern I’ve seen yet, with that stunning triple tophat a standout:

I think B-grade sci-fi may have been his inspiration for this collection, entitled XYZ : X is for X-Ray. Y is for Yesteryear. Z is for Zombie.

Piers’ headwear is from the Winter collection “It’s Later than you Think” (seen below), and is so punk and gothic in aesthetic that it makes me want to go back to millinery myself! This is the stuff I’d like to make – and wear! What do you think?

  

Back to Sister, the store. There’s distressed leather, jackets with metal panelling (just seen below), as well as exquisite vintage embroidered pieces:

They’re not afraid of print; alongside tartan and spots there’s digi-prints and 70’s psychedelic prints:

Each piece in the store has a very luxe feel; I love the deconstructed zipped leather, leopard dresses and fluffy fur jackets jere.

As you head towards the stairs to head down to sister-store Candy, you’re greeted with this Hannibal-Lecter like concoction that is spooky yet fun. It is a parka-like jacket with lots of black ripped muslin dripping from the sleeves and edges – very Naoto or Stigmata-like, might I say:

 

(and yes, that is a stuffed bear that watches you as you descend the stairs)

I personally found Candy less to my taste…but can easily see where some of the Shibuya and Harajuku hipsters I see around (like S.P. with his blue hair) get their gear from. It is full of nu-rave gear, very bright neon in colour, with lots of paint splatters from the 80’s. There are a few KTZ items as I mentioned in my KTZ post here.

So we came, we saw…and went back back upstairs and bought the Femme Fatale tights, before finally bidding our goodbyes and hitting the street.

Bye bye, Sister and Candy…you KNOW I’ll be seeing you again!

Sister/Candy: Udagawa-cho 18-4, Shibuya-ku, tel: 03 5456 9891

Candy online shopSister online shop

Shinjuku Shoe Plaza Chiyoda

Just a quickie. I was excited to see a new multi-storey shoe mall open in Shinjuku – the Shoe Plaza Chiyoda – and I just had to go and try on something! I found some Doc-replicas in groovy colours such as bright blue and purple..for only 3,000 yen!! That’s less than 40 dollars australian. I also found that I could take a full length outfit shot in the mirror (see the blue docs behind me)

My pics were hastily taken and not great….but look at all the boots and shoes!!!

I was rushing past on my last afternoon and looking longingly at the fake docs…but kept going as I was running late. Oh, regret…

So if you happen to be nearby, check it out for great opening week bargains 🙂 It’s on the main drag going to/from the station near Studio Alta, just opposite Okadaya.

Fukubukuro pictures, Part 2

Now I’m back home and can upload pics from my Sony, here are some more pictures from January 2nd – the day the New Years lucky bags go on sale in Japan.

The excellent site Tokyo Fashion has already done 3 fab articles with loads of photos on Fukubukuro here, here and here.

As for me, I went to Marui One first, as I wanted to get gothic gear. I was there about 10.30 but there was no queue out the door or anything. It was only when I got inside that I saw masses of people looking at the sales and the various bags. Here’s a quick pic I took on my way out:

I was there primarily for the shopping, not to take pictures, so there weren’t that many. After all, I had THREE major centres to hit! I passed Studio Alta around midday also, and there weren’t too many girls out the front, although it was very crowded inside. Many had the rolling pink floral cases by Liz Lisa, I noticed.

Had I but known, I should’ve just stayed there, as between Alta and Lumine Est, most of the major gal brands are covered, and I wouldn’t have been swept along in the seething mass of people that was Shibuya 109. But, to Shibuya I went.

It didn’t look too bad from far away…

 

But you could only see the madness when you got up close!

Everywhere were people jostling, clutching multiple lucky bags…some TV company was even filming it, as you can just see here…

lucky bags Shibuya 109

gyaru lucky bags Shibuya 109

lucky bags Shibuya 109

You can see the familiar brand names Cecil McBee, Vanquish, Ank Rouge, Rose FanFan, JSG, and one that might be Manalove…everywhere girls were opening their packs and swapping with girlfriends nearby (as items are not always the same, even in bags from the same brand).  I took these pics as I was carried along by the crowd. Once inside it was little better; again the crowd just surged along taking you with it like a raging torrent, and you had to try to get out of the crowd to enter a shop you liked. One – Emoda – had quite a queue to even get in the store, such was its popularity. And then there were the queues at the tills.

I decided just to buy particular pieces I liked rather than lucky bags, as I’d already bought 2 naoto bags in the morning, and the ones where I could see the contents, were not that appealing to me.

I then went to Harajuku, visiting La Foret for the the gothic punk underground floors, before proceeding along the street past Forever 21, where you can see girls spruiking the bags outside:

 

Here’s what they sounded like: Girls at Harajuku Forever 21 spruiking lucky bags

And here’s how slow it was walking in the crowd from La Foret to Takeshita Street: Harajuku on fukubukuro day, Jan 2

Takeshita Street was, of course, crowded to the max as well:

SO great were the crowds out that day, that as I was waiting for the Yamanote line train back to Shinjuku, a very strange thing happened: the  trains stopped to let people OFF on the other side, but wouldn’t let people ON.  This just doesn’t happen on a normal day, no matter how busy. Two trains passed in this way, and I despaired of ever getting home, when a third train finally arrived and actually opened its doors to the ravening hordes. PHEW!